Braid Knots For Braid Fishers: 04

TYING THE SAN DIEGO JAM LOOP KNOT

Dear Reader,

We have now reached the most complicated yet uncomplicated knot that I will lay before you. It is a true knot ‘of character’. A real Jekyll and Hyde of a knot that would make Robert Louis Stevenson proud! Put simply, the use of fine braid with this knot transforms it from a moderate-difficulty level into something way more challenging – unless you use my hack.

This may seem surprising since the standard SDJ is not too hard to tie with thick or thin line. But then, you are not being asked to tie a standard SDJ, but one with additional trapping coils at the commencement of tying and one that sits within the restrictive confines of a Framework.

The Framework

This is the term I give to the overarching loop you are required to make before continuing with the rest of the knot. I could just as easily term it ‘locking strap’ or ‘cinching strap’ because it both locks down the knot and forms a strap along the length of it. Where this device differs from the majority of loop patterns is that it not only cinches but also provides the means by which the size of loop can be adjusted.

At the time of discovery, I had the Tuna Loop Knot in the bank (or so I thought...) but saw right away that using a knot built inside this framework could offer the tantalising prospect of adjustability – something not that easy with the Tuna Loop Knot.

I had a selection of knot patterns to choose from, e.g. San Diego Jam Knot, Pitzen Knot, Uni Knot in single- or double-line form. How hard could it be? In fact, it turned out to be a lot harder than I expected. Consistency was one issue and, even when I did reach the magic 90% benchmark, the resulting loop knot resembled something looking like a strung bow. Not really the result I was looking for.

SDJ Knot (loop knot instructions)

The SDJ Knot will already be known to many through Sea Fishing and, although it has gone by various nomenclatures over the course of time (Heiliger Knot, Reverse Clinch), it is a knot that is particularly associated with Tuna Fishing and being braid-friendly.

When it comes to knot tying, we all have our preferences, but when it comes to adaptation, those preferences need to be set aside, and the results allowed to speak for themselves.

Such is the case here. My preferred connection knot is the Fish N Fool Knot with the trusty Uni Knot in support because I find it easier to tie, not because I think it is stronger. In fact, using an SDJ Knot instead of the Uni Knot in this configuration has been shown to give very similar results on braid suggesting that these knots are evenly matched and that any purported differences in performance is more likely because the SDJ Knot was not given enough turns to perform at its best – something that is very easy to do when using braid.

Still sceptical? Much as I might like to advocate the use of the Uni Knot within my loop framework, I cannot because it does not fulfil all my requirements whereas the SDJ Knot does.

Before rushing to judgement on the SDJ Knot’s abilities with fine slippery braid when compared with the Uni Knot, these points are worth consideration:

1. The Uni Knot will always be easier to tie, and consistency is key to producing reliable knots. Knowing this, there is a hack that can be applied to gain the same level of consistency with the SDJ Knot – whether as a connection knot or loop knot

2. Previously, when I tried the SDJ Knot within my loop framework, I did not get any exceptional results, and while they were not where I wanted them to be, they were, however, consistent. Consequently, I moved over to trying to get the Uni Knot to work in single-line and doubled-line configurations. Sometimes, I succeeded, but never consistently, and if I did succeed, invariably the knot was drawn tight into the shape of a strung bow which I was powerless to correct

In due course, I revisited the SDJ Knot and found that increasing the trapping coil made at the commencement of the knot from x1 to x2 or x3 significantly increased the performance of the knot, even with only x25 turns within my loop framework.

In my opinion, the use of x2 - x3 coils at the back of the SDJ not only makes it a match for the Uni Knot on slippery braid but, possibly, its superior:

Whilst each can be stronger when tied with a doubled line, most people prefer to use a single line

With the Uni Knot in a single-line Fish-N-Fool configuration, you can increase the number of wraps around the hook or swivel and combine it with increasing the amount of turns around the main line to achieve the desired strength. The SDJ Knot offers these tuning options and the additional option of increasing its coils in conjunction, possibly, with a decrease in the amount of turns required around the main line. In other words, an extra degree of tunability

The composition of the SDJ Knot causes it to ‘corkscrew’ rather than ‘bowstring’ like the Uni Knot when tensioned. Only once under extreme tension did I transform the corkscrew into a bowstring - whilst still retaining its integrity but making it ineligible for future use. This was easily cured by wrapping the tag line around the body of the knot and improving the aesthetics into the bargain!

Lastly, before I explain how to tie the SDJ Knot as a loop, a word of caution as summed up by the phrase, ‘Jam by Name, Jam by Nature’. The purpose of the loop framework is to allow the angler to adjust the loop size of the chosen knot within and cinch the loop once the main line is tightened. The SDJ Knot has clear points of transition from one part of its construction to another where over-tightening causes it to lock up the ability of the loop framework to size the knot.

Gentle tensioning prior to cinching is the name of the game coupled with lots of moisturising. Therefore, it will be beneficial to practice with a shoelace to discover where the ‘choke’ points are and avoid them when using the intended line.

CONNECTION - 2-TURN

As I intimated earlier, the types of knot I had to choose from are all patterns used for attaching hooks, swivels, and such like. In other words, they are all designed to connect a tightened line to the terminal tackle item - a basic hook knot, if you will.

In the process of developing the SDJ Loop Knot, I enhanced the core SDJ Connection Knot with additional 'trapping coils' at the commencement of the knot - a modification which I do not believe to be new but which I have not seen described elsewhere.

From the testing that I have conducted with my fine braid as part of optimising the best balance between trapping coils and turns around the main line, I found that additional trapping coils do make a difference. The results I obtained are inconclusive as I was not comparing like with like. For the record, they were as follows:

1. x2 Tc's + x40 turns = 93%

2. x2 Tc's + x25 turns = <90%

3. x3 Tc's + x30 turns = 90%

4. x3 Tc's + x46 turns = 100%

However, looking at the values against 2 & 3, I am reminded that when performance testing on my Tuna Loop Knot, a combination of x2 tucks + x30 turns gave the same performance as x3 tucks matched to x25 turns. And similarly, x3 tucks matched to x30 plus turns gave the best performance of all.

Thus far, my comments have been directed to the use of fine braids. What about heavier lines, braid, mono, or fluoro? To derive the most benefit, each additional trapping coil must be seated properly - add too many such that one prevents another from seating properly and you might find you were better off without.

In the context of increasing turns, tucks, and trapping coils, did you every wonder why doubling the line makes such a difference to a knot's performance? I think that in our rush to explain it by saying that increasing the profile of the tag end by doubling it from a single line to a double line gives the knot more to grip on, we are perhaps ignoring something far more obvious.

If I tie a single-line Uni Knot with x10 turns and then a double-line Uni Knot also with x10 turns, they superficially seem the same. But they are not underneath because x10 turns with the double line equals x20 with the single line. So, naturally the double line knot performs better because it has the benefit of extra turns!

(click on photos to expand)

Thread the line through the item to be connected - I have chosen not to for reasons of clarity - to form a loop

Gripping both sides with thumb and forefinger, take the tag end under the main line and back over towards you

Now place between thumb and forefinger - this will form the first 'trapping coil around your finger

Take the tag end under thumb and forefinger again and back towards you to make the second trapping coil

Place between thumb and forefinger as before to form the second trapping coil

Now take the tag end under thumb and forefinger and as you bring it back towards you, trap it between your forefinger and the main line to form the first turn

Continue making the required turns towards the item to be connected

Bring the tag end up between both lines (the difference between a Pitzen Knot and a SDJ) and through the trapping coils you created earlier

Almost there! Holding the tag end with one hand, pull with your other hand on whichever of the lines starts to close the trapping coils. Once closed, hold both lines with your left hand and pull on the tag end to cinch the coils as tight as you can. You are now ready to cinch the knot against your desired connection item

TIP

On heavier thicker lines, you need to cut back on the amount of turns you use to give the the trapping coils a chance to grip strongly; if you add too many turns such that the Tc's do not fully grip the main line, you won't be any better off than if you used the standard single Tc

And here it is. A standard SDJ Knot equipped with additional trapping coil for added strength

SDJ LOOP – 2-TURN
(click heading to return to top)

Now that you have become acquainted with the SDJ as a connection knot, you are ready to watch it perform a quite different role - for in the former, it is designed to slip, in the latter, to hold fast.

Make the Framework Loop in the main line ensuring that it is long enough to accomodate the length of multiple turns - DO NOT FORM AN OVERHEAD KNOT. Then loop the line back to form the main knot loop

Hold loops between thumb and forefinger as shown

Draw the tag end down away from you and bring it up through the Framework Loop towards you

Grip the tag end between thumb and forefinger to make the first trapping coil over your forefinger

Take the tag end again down away from you and back up towards you through the Framework Loop to form the second Tc over your forefinger

Once more, place between thumb and forefinger

Take the tag end for a third time down away from you and back up towards you. This time, however, slide it between your forefinger and the line as you bring it through the Framework Loop to begin the first of the required turns

As before, take the tag end down away from you and bring up the other side towards you through the Framework Loop trapping it with your forefinger to form the second turn

Continue making the turns as required carefully placing each next to its neighbour. Note that you will need to have the finger of your other hand through the main loop to provide tension

Here, the required turns have been made and the tag end is being drawn up between the two sides of the main loop towards the Tc's

And here, the tag end has been passed through the Tc's - easy enough with heavy lines but not with fine ones - hence my hack

Holding the tag end and main line with your right hand, pull on whichever side of the main loop begins to close the Tc's. With thick lines, you can take your time. With fine lines, a steady pull is advised

Still holding the side of the main loop you have been pulling on to close the Tc's, apply moderate tension with the tag end in the opposite direction. The aim is to ensure that the Tc's are fully seated.

However, if you over tension with the tag end, you run the risk of pulling the turns you laid down previously out of shape causing a choke point. This will make sizing the main loop via the Framework Loop much harder. So, moderate pressure with the tag end at this stage, and full pressure once you have sized the loop as required

To size the main loop, you may want to remove your finger and replace it with the hook of your scales or something equally thin and solid. This will prevent your finger from being cut and allow you to make a much smaller loop. I am using my finger for clarity but would be using the hook of my scales with the fine braid I use.

Hold the back of the Framework Loop with your thumb and forefinger, and pull in the opposite direction to the main loop being restrained by your finger or some other implement to reduce the size of the main loop as required

See how the size of the main loop shown in Frame 13 has been reduced and how the size of the Framework Loop has been increased in this frame as it takes up the slack.

Having sized the loop, this is your opportunity to pull hard on the tag end to tighten up everything before final cinching. This will cause the knot to 'bowstring' on fine braids. To straighten up the knot, pull on the back of the Framework Loop

With everything straightened out, it's time to cinch the loop knot. Moisten the Framework Loop to ease its passage. Securing the main loop with thumb and forefinger of one hand, pull on the main line with the other causing the Framework Loop to become a Locking Strap

Finished! Not quite. Whether your line is thick or thin, it is always worth adding the reversed half hitches of a Crocodile Knot to provide extra security ...

In this frame we see that the 'over' hitch has been laid down

Followed by the second reversed hitch to form the first Cow Hitch

Now with its quota of reversed hitches complete

I am introducing the yellow lace to show how to finish off the knot by over wrapping with the tag end - this should be unnecessary with heavier lines but, as we will see, is highly recommended with fine braid lines

Wrap the tag end up towards the top of the loop

Now wrap back in the opposite direction

Then back up to around the middle of the knot where you will prepare a half hitch to slip over the main loop and lock the tag end in place

Here the first half hitch is being slipped over the main loop in readiness to be tightened around the middle

And here is the second half hitch being readied

The finished article. With such thick material, it looks untidy and is not required. With fine braid, however, it will blend in and perform a useful role

So, you've practised enough and now want to 'give it a go'. As I have said before, the transition from Bokken Lace to Katana Braid can be quite stark, and never more so than with this knot. With practice, you might be able to continue wrapping the trapping coils around your finger but I think you will find my hack of using a hollow tube will make life easier, particularly if you are working with super fine braids.

RECIPE

x3 trapping coils followed by x46 turns for maximum performance

x2 trapping coils followed by x40 turns for 90% performance

(click on photos to expand)

First, pull off enough line to comfortably complete the knot. Then, make the Framework Loop (keeping it open as shown), followed by the main loop

Hold between thumb and forefinger as shown

Insert your short length of smooth hollow tubing between forefinger and the line - I use a piece of cotton bud tubing

Make 2-3 turns around your tubing taking the tag end under the main line and away from you before bringing it back up the other side and through the Framework Loop towards you

Here the first of the turns is being laid down

And now the second

Building up the turns keeping a constant tension on the main loop as you do so

Until you have added the required number of turns

Take the tag end up between the two sides of the main loop and thread through your hollow tube. Here you see that I have laid down x3 trapping coils

Slide your tube off the end of the tag end - make sure you pick one that is smooth

Gripping the main body of the knot between your thumb and forefinger, pull on the appropriate side of the main loop to close up the tc's

Here, the tc's have been closed but the tag end is showing a small loop

Simply tension it lightly holding the side of the main loop you used to close the tc's and pulling on the tag end

Now you have reached the stage where it is time to think about the size of the loop you want to finish with. Hold the back of the Framework Loop and slip the main loop over something solid

I find the hook of one's scales is ideal if you want to make a really small loop. Accordingly, we see the main loop has been pulled tight against the hook. Remember that the loop will 'grow' slightly during cinching but not as much as my other knot patterns

Here, I have grasped the tag end ready to pull it as tight as possible having adjusted the size of the loop first

Look closely, and you can just make out the knot forming a 'bowstring' where it joins the hook. This was the issue I never seemed to be able to resolve using other patterns of knot

However, as you can see, pulling on the back of the Framework Loop will straighten it out

And here it is. This is what you have been working towards. You are still not finished, however, but the hard work has been done. Like most braid loop knots that work, it has a long body to accommodate all the turns it comprises. Unfortunately, it is the 'nature of the beast' and there is no loop knot that I know of that will hold as well with less

Don't forget to add a Crocodile - about x20 half hitches suffices. Here, I am making the first 'over' hitch taking the tag end over the main line and bringing it back towards me under the main line and through the loop I have just created

And here comes the 'under' hitch formed by taking the tag end under the main line and back towards you through the loop you have just created. You have made your first Cow Hitch.

Another x9 Cow Hitches or x18 half hitches to go ...

Here is the finished knot - 'suited and booted'. The x20 half-hitch Crocodile can be seen stretching out to the rear. Also, see where the tag end has been trimmed denoting that it has been wrapped up and down the body of the knot as previously described

The two examples following show clearly what can happen if you do not apply this over-wrapping: